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Panerai Luminor Base Marina PAM001 C Series – REVIEW

Panerai was founded in 1860 by Giovanni Panerai in Florence Italy.  These timepieces were originally designed for the Italian naval officers to wear as they encountered extreme conditions.  The over-sized casing of the design was re-adapted in the new models and continues to be a defining feature for the brand today.  What started out as a niche company, has become one of the most desired boutique watch manufacturers in the market today.  You’ll find Panerai on the wrists of superstars like Sylvester Stallone, Arnold Schwarzenegger, Bill Clinton, Tom Cruise, and Jason Statham.

Functionality

The Luminor Base Marina model is one of the most simple Panerai’s available.  It has the basic hour and minute hands, as well as a small-seconds dial at the 9 o’clock position.

The Luminor model of the Panerai brand has a large crown with a unique folding clasp design to protect the movement from damage.  The crown guard pops out of its locked position and folds out which then allows you to adjust the crown itself to set the time.  This allows you to manually wind the movement as well.

When pushing the crown back into the locked position, ensure you do so carefully, gently, and with even pressure on both sides of the crown.  Being aggressive with the crown, especially on earlier base model Panerai’s like this can damage the functionality.  The unique crown guard is also a feature which helps determine authenticity.  If the crown guard is too large, and/or not immaculate in every detail down to the metal brushing, it could be a sign it is a fake.

The Luminor Marina has a 56 hour power reserve and high visibility luminous dial markers.

Quality of Craftsmanship

Panerai craftsmanship has withstood the test of time (no pun intended).  Remember, these watches were used and trusted by the Navy historically.

The positives of Panerai craftsmanship include the aesthetically pleasing design.  Panerai Luminor models typically come with the ‘sandwich’ dial appropriately named for the layering of discs on top of each other.  This dial design was initially created out of pure functionality.  The Royal Italian Navy requested a strong presence of luminous glow for their watches so they could easily see at night and while diving.  By making the bottom layer of their dials luminous, and covering it with an additional upper layer, Panerai was able to let the glow power through stronger than other watches.  This yields an amazing glow when you wear one in the dark and looks stunning.  Today there are different variations of the dial including painted on stick-dials, and recessed lume layered dials.  The ‘sandwich’ dial is a feature you should look for when accessing the quality of this model and trying to identify authenticity.  Not every model has them.

The dials of the Luminor Marina are also decorated with Arabic numerals at the 12, 3, and 6 o’clock positons.  This was once again a request by the Italian Navy for visibility ease.  It has remained as a desirable design feature for the brand today.

Wrist Presence

The Luminor Marina has a 44mm casing which makes for a strong wrist presence.  The model doesn’t look as good on smaller wrists.  If you have a wrist size of 7” + I think it would suit you well.  The Panerai Luminor is almost instantly recognizable by watch gurus and even watch wannnabes due to its unique design and large size.  You’re sure to get some attention and praise by wearing one on your wrist especially from Paneristis (Panerai hard-core enthusiasts.)

Keep in mind, the more complex the model, the more cred you’ll get.  Wearing a Base Luminor like this model is a nice entry to Panerai, but not nearly as strong as some of their thousands of other variations with multiple complications.

Conclusion

We rank this watch a total of 6/10 in general and a 7/10 for a business watch.  They typically come with the OEM leather strap and rubber sport band.  The leather looks classier in my opinion and can add a superb touch to any business suit.  Folks tend to buy multiple straps for their Panerai as they are easy to interchange and there are plenty of OEM and after market designs available.  It doesn’t hurt to have one to match each of your primary styles!

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Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Co-Axial 8500 Titanium – REVIEW

The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean is one of the most widely recognized signature collections of the Omega brand.  Omega was established in 1848 and didn’t come out with the first line of its Planet Ocean collection until 2005.  A variation of the Seamaster that could handle even the deepest of dives, this model has had its fair share of movie appearances on the big screen.  More recently you may have seen it on the wrist of Daniel Craig as James Bond.

Functionality

The Planet Ocean line, originally geared towards sea-goers as diving timepieces can handle up to 600m of oceanic pressure.  There is exceptional luminous markers on the piece which are easy to read during the day, night, in the fog, and pretty much anywhere you travel to.  Equipped with a helium escape valve, most folks won’t use it as a certified diver would.  It becomes more of a conversational piece at networking events if you will.  If you do however need to deal with mixed gas environments, it will be sure to hold up against the elements for you.

The piece has a few key functions that make it a desirable tactical watch over and above just being an aesthetically pleasing wrist charm.  First, there is the time zone function accessed via the watch crown that allows you to change the hour hand without stopping the watch hands.  The watch also has a hacking-seconds function that provides its owner with a to-the-second setting for type-A personalities.

Equipped with a 60 hour power reserve, this watch can last longer than most in its competitive playing field.  Within the movement, there is a bi-directional automatic winding rotor and a dual main balance spring.  The planet ocean co-axial movement flaunts a full balance bridge, similar to Rolex dive watches, which can be enjoyed via the transparent case-back view.  The most recent innovation Omega has added to the piece is their silicon hairspring, which is a-magnetic and reduces the possibility of magnetism screwing with the time-keeping function of the movement.

Quality of Craftsmanship

In the past decade, Omega has made a run at some of the most elite watch brands when it comes to quality.  Most notably, the brand has been compared to Rolex and its sales have jumped to be a close runner-up to those of the timepiece King.  Omega shows care in every piece they create and it is especially evident in the case back view of the co-axil 8500 movement in this watch.  You may remember the commercial Omega did with the universe rotating around a centripetal machine and the tiny mechanical cyclists riding around on the metal tracks.  This was Omega showcasing their opus (the co-axial movement).  It really does awe and impress.

The titanium casing for the piece used in this model is nice in that it dents and scratches less than the steel models.

Wrist Presence

The 42mm Planet Ocean is a great size for most wrists.  Their models vary from the 30’s to high 46mm range of diameters.  This one is just right.  The titanium casing is a bit odd.  It feels super light and is almost surprisingly light at first.

If you’re someone who likes a light feel watch or has a small wrist this may be your Omega.  For those of you who like a heavy feel and wrist presence, you may want to try this one on first, pick up a steel version, or avoid all together.  It’s definitely a unique weight.  The Planet Ocean is always great for making a statement in a crowded room, easily identifiable, and is most likely going to sit on top of most business cuffs.

Conclusion

We rank this watch a total of 7/10 in general and a 5/10 for a business watch.

The retail price for the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean titanium version is $8,600.  There are many variations of the Planet Ocean that make for ballin’ wrist candy.  This one works for the enthusiast, someone who appreciates titanium as a precious metal, and/or someone who wants to enjoy the 8500 movement via the case back display.

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Cartier Ballon Bleu Stainless Steel – REVIEW

I picked up my Cartier Ballon Bleu w690z412 from an international jeweler on the website Chrono24.com.  This model is the larger unisex stainless steel 42mm version with an accompanying stainless steel bracelet.  The piece came with all boxes, booklets, and original warranty still good for one year.  In mint condition, it was a must have in the KnightWatch timepiece rotation, if even for a short period of time.

The steel around the entire timepiece gives it a smooth, cool, and classy feel that is hard to find anywhere else.  The Ballon Bleu is known as the ‘franchise’ for the Cartier collection.  It’s what Tom Brady is to the New England Patriots, or what Michael Jordan was to the Chicago Bulls.

Functionality

The w69012z4 reference model has the automatic Cariter de Calibre 049 movement at the heart of the machine.  This movement is one that can withstand a beating.  As elegant and feminine as the brand can sometimes appear, their hardware keeps running like a tank.

There is only one complication on this model which is a small date window positioned at the 3 o’clock marker.  The smaller Ballon Bleu models do not have this date function.  Instead, there is a Roman numeral III which bumps into the dial.  One can change the time and quick-set the date by pulling out the rounded sapphire cabochon which is tucked away nicely in between the body of the timepiece and the unique semi-arc crown guard.  This guard serves as an aesthetically pleasing design element that also acts as a shield.

The stainless steel bracelet that comes with the piece is a double trigger, dual clasp deployment which gives it a perfectly flush look and feel when locked-in.  The clasp makes sure the Ballon Bleu won’t accidentally unlock.  When closed, it looks like there isn’t even a clasp since the dual-deployment brings the bracelet completely together.  This a subtle yet beautiful finish to the entire design.

Quality of Craftsmanship

Cartier as a brand has been around since 1847 and has had plenty of time to perfect the art of excellence.  Every little detail on the Ballon Bleu is flawless.  From the Guilloche dial pattern to the puzzle-piece perfect steel links of the bracelet, everything comes together.

The white Guilloche dial makes for an intricate eye-entrancing focal point.  The electric blue sword hands and the sapphire crown cabochon glisten in the light.  The combination plays so well off of the stainless steel casing which is only 13mm thick.

The stainless steel bracelet is a perfect finishing touch to the piece.  The bracelet itself feels very high quality and sturdy.  The brushed finish gives it a brand new polished look.  The bracelet does scratch easily though.  This is normal with most steel composites, and since it is steel all the way around, it’s almost guaranteed to take on some nicks.  Most small dings, nicks, and swirls can be polished out.

Wrist Presence

The 42mm Ballon Bleu is a great size for most wrists.  It is known as the unisex version because it looks good on both men and women.  The recent trend toward women wearing larger sized timepieces has helped shape that notion.

There are few timepieces that sit so comfortably and close to the wrist.  It feels like it is almost part of your body.  It is easy to understand how you can forget you have it on.  Being 13mm in depth, this piece can be covered easily by any cuff.  It goes along well with most attire minus a short sleeved t-shirt.  The white dial contrasts beautifully with the electric blue hands and the black Roman numeral dial markers.  Mix in the polished, cool stainless steel and you’ve got a piece of pure French elegance.  It’s definitely more on the dressy side than on the wild, artsy, sporty side of the fence.

Conclusion

We rank this watch a total of 7/10 in general and a 6/10 for a business watch.

This piece looks just as good on the burliest of men as it does on the sexiest of ladies.  And that is very hard to accomplish.  It is to this day still one of the most popular models in the Cartier line.

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Rolex GMT Master II (Batman) – REVIEW

This Rolex GMT Master II with the ‘Batman’ bezel in mint condition was picked up from a local seller who had all of the boxes, papers, and warranty still active in 2014.  The model number for this timepiece is 116710BLNR, which is slightly different from the other GMT Master II models.  This model features the Rolex patented Cerachrom bezel which is made from one piece of ceramic block then colored both black and blue.  Thus, the model was named the ‘Batman’ version of the GMT.

It is a highly desirable version of the GMT II, and has only gone up in value since its first appearance at the Basel World exhibit in 2013.  It is known as the first ever timepiece to have a dual-color ceramic bezel.

Functionality

The GMT Master II is well known for its ability to keep time in multiple zones.  The 24-hour number markers on the bezel, paired with the third GMT hand on the dial can be rotated and set so that you can keep track of the time in your hometown, while traveling the globe and still quickly being able to identify the local time.  A handy function for the jetsetter or anyone who has family and friends in different parts of the world.

The large date magnifier at the 3 o’clock position, the Super-LumiNova filled dial markers, and dual-colored bezel all make this an easy to read watch.  On the bezel, the blue colored half represents the day-time (hours 6-18) and the black colored half represents the night (hours 18-6).

Besides the façade of the timepiece, the crown helps you set all of the functions.  You can quick-set the hour marker on the 116710 which is something you could not do on the older GMT Master’s.  You can also quick-set the GMT hand, and the date.

The stainless steel Oyster style bracelet that comes standard with this model also has some functionality besides a polished dress-up look.  The Easylink system under the clasp can extend out 5mm without any tools to give you some room to breathe on hot summer days for example.

Quality of Craftsmanship

Rolex has always been known for their outstanding contributions to the watch industry.  From the 3186 movement inside, to the outside casing, it is nothing short of flawless.

Specifically in this model, the patented Perachrom blue hairspring was inserted to replace their older version hairspring.  The Perachrom hairspring is 10X more resistant to shock and features enhanced anti-magnetic properties.  It is also more resistant to positional variation than other hairsprings.  What this means is that if you place the timepiece down on your dresser at night, or play around with it often, there is less likelihood of it losing seconds.

The movement itself is a Rolex in-house movement (3186) that boasts 48-50 hours of power reserve.  It also allows for bi-directional winding witch typically yields less wiggle than a unidirectional winding movement. The Teflon coated reversing wheels make the timepiece highly efficient.

The Rolex patented Ceracrhom bezel is practically impossible to scratch, and is accentuated with platinum GMT markers, and topped off with contrasting colors.

The stainless steel casing and bracelet are made of 904L steel, which is very resistant to stress corrosion and cracking.  The milled clasp of the GMT Master II is also highly desirable due to its overall dressy look, durability, and Easylink housing extension.

Wrist Presence

The GMT Master II Batman has a wonderful wrist presence.  At 40mm in diameter, it is large enough to make a statement but not so overwhelming that it cannot be covered up by a standard business cuff.  It should feel comfortable on most wrists except very small ones.

The larger ‘Maxi’ dial of the newer GMT Master’s have white-gold dial markers which give it a pop!  The subtle contrast of the platinum GMT bezel markers mixed with the bi-color blue & black bezel are a show-stopper. This is a must try combination, unless of course you don’t like the colors blue & black, in which case you should just pick up a 116710LN GMT Master II.

Conclusion

We rank this watch a total of 8/10 in general and a 9/10 for a business watch.

The cost for the watch new is $8,950.  Some jewelers are even charging a premium for this color combination since they are in such high demand.  The secondary market value is relatively close to the retail value of this timepiece.

Although simple and somewhat repetitive in design, which is a staple of Rolex, this timepiece is a hot ticket item and worth at least trying on.  If you’re a Rolex fan, you are sure to love this piece.  If you are not, you may want to ignore this model and pick up a Panerai GMT instead.

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Ulysse Nardin Maxi Marine Diver 18K Rose Gold Ref: 266-33 – REVIEW

The Maxi Marine Diver is a signature model of the marine chronometer line of fine timepieces manufactured by Ulysse Nardin, the Swiss based company founded in 1846.  I picked up this model of the Maxi Diver in 18 carat rose gold which is an upgraded variation of the 263-33 steel model.  The Maxi Marine Diver is a perfect combination of both beauty and brawn as it has both functionality and style.

Although the resale value of the model has tanked in recent years, the craftsmanship and overall feel of this piece is irreplaceable.

Functionality

The Maxi Marine Diver has just the right amount of functional balance for the timepiece enthusiast who doesn’t like to be overwhelmed when looking at the dial.

Starting from the top, there’s a 42 hour power reserve sub-dial.  With gold trim and red accents on the up/down indicators, it’s a subtle touch that plays well off of the dark background of the dial.  The sub-dial and the main hands are both sword like in design making them both aesthetically pleasing and easily legible.  The dial comes in either a white or dark color.  The dark variation, which is the one I acquired, reflects almost a chocolate brown when the sunlight dances upon it.

At the 6 o’clock position, you’ll find the subsidiary seconds and the date aperture window within that subsidiary seconds dial.  This dual-circle combination acts as a pleasing design balance between the top and bottom of the dial.  The magnifier on the date makes it easy to read even down in the depths of the ocean which is what the Maxi Marine Diver was built to handle.

The luminous tips of the sword-like hands and dial markers make this piece easily legible in the dark.

The unidirectional rose gold bezel with 60-minute divisions helps keep track of longer time periods without a fly-back chronograph function.

The screw down crown acts as an air-tight seal to keep water out of the timepiece down to 200 meters.  The transparent case-back provides a delightful visual journey into the magnificence of the in-house UN-26 movement which has a 22 carat gold rotor.

Quality of Craftsmanship

Ulysse Nardin is one of the lesser known boutique brands by the mass market in the timepiece world, however it is known among the watch community as having some of the finest, most innovative chronometers still being produced.

Ulysse Nardin has created timepieces that can not only withstand the depths and harshness of the ocean environment, but any elements you may put it against.

The rubber & metal combo diver strap unique to Ulysse Nardin, is one of the best parts about this watch.  The gold links continue the elegant theme of luxury throughout the design of the watch while still functioning as a versatile sports diver.  The ingenious of the rubber and gold together allow the timepiece to fit perfectly to almost any wrist and not allow it to flank out too wide on the ends.  This is a design specific to Ulysse Nardin and it’s well worth trying.

Wrist Presence

The Maxi Marine Diver in 18 carat rose gold is a beast!  It is much heavier than its cousin the 263-33 steel version.  At 43mm, it looks great on most wrist sizes and with the combination of the Ulysse Nardin sport rubber & metal strap, it sits like a tailored suit on the wrist.

The height of the piece can bulge out a bit and may be tough to cover up with certain business cuffs.  The weight of the gold alone can be a deal maker or a deal breaker.  If you have a smaller wrist and don’t like heavy timepieces, this isn’t the watch for you.  If you like a heavier piece and being flashy, this is absolutely a must have.

Conclusion

The retail for the 266-33 new is $31,500.  The rose gold on this Maxi Marine Diver makes it hard not to show off to all of your friends.

The resale value on the timepiece is terrible unfortunately but the good news is that means you can pick one up for much less than retail.  This timepiece is worth every penny if you want to enjoy it, impress your network, colleagues, friends, and partners.  They may not know about Ulysse Nardin, but you can bet after you wear this one they will.  It’s a beautiful combination of art and science.